THERE are mangoes and there are mangoes. Then there are Haden mangoes. Rich, juicy, piney, lushious, sap-dripping, brilliant orange Haden mangoes. Not totally alone in quality, there are also ‘Ah Ping’, ‘Fairchild’, ‘Gouveia’, ‘Harders’, ‘Keitt’, ‘Momi K’, ‘Pope’, and ‘Rapoza’ varieties that are almost equal, of the over 60 varieties that grow in Hawaii. The key word here is “almost.” But give me a Mangifera indica Haden mango anytime.

I’ve noted over th...